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 Freja’s coming home!   This was to be the last leg of the Long Trip, taking over from Richard Maxwell and crew who had just completed the connection from the Kiel Canal to Holland.  First stop Enkhuisen to pick up the boat.  The plan was to then enjoy a few days sailing around lesser known Dutch ports before heading home across the North Sea from Ijmunden to Shotley. Plus of course, the opportunity to be tourists for a day in Amsterdam.

Thursday.  Take your bus pass!  Thursday marked departure from the UK, leaving cars at Shotley for a convenient return journey home, taking the ferry across to Harwich then the overnight ferry to Hook of Holland.   But there was no ferry that evening; instead, the challenge of using public transport.  A tip for future crews – never travel without your Seniors Bus pass if you have one!  Our Seniors had remembered theirs and travelled free on the bus to Harwich, still arriving in time for the overnight crossing (with cabin and a full cooked “Dutch”? breakfast).

Friday.  Joining Freyja.  Whilst 3 of our crew, Rob, John & Gordon, travelled south from the Hook, our fourth member, David, was travelling North to Enkhuisen after an early morning Gatwick flight to Schiphol.  The rail ticket cost a reasonable 11.50 Euros. It all came together in Enkhuisen, arriving just one train apart.  It was useful, but quite unplanned to rendezvous with the outward crew at a pub half way between marina and station.  There, we had time to share a couple of beers and a de-brief - Freyja was ready and waiting for us; and in good order.  We found her in Enkhuisen’s huge marina.  As weekend racers arrived we checked her over and provisioned.  We ate ashore after exploring the town.

     Saturday.   Not invited to the party – but we went anyway!   We set off for the short sail to Edam, yes, the cheesy one!  The short trip gave us the opportunity to shake out and reset reefs, generally get boat-wise again.  The channel was clearly marked, although it seemed a long way round.  It feels uncomfortable with the depth reading so low at 1.0 -1.5 metres, but there’s no panic - we’ll get used to it.   

  Through the narrow entrance to a small harbour with clubhouse and marina facilities.  Box moorings again, with the precarious step ashore over the bow.  About twenty minutes walk into town.

We were made very welcome & moored next to another Najad.  In fact there were Najads everywhere!  We were one of 14 or more Najads in the harbour that night.  We had hit the weekend of a Dutch Najad rally, with boats invited from all over the Netherlands.   Najad 391s were popular and Najad 342s.  Our ECYD Najad enthusiasts would have enjoyed this.  The Skipper would not allow us to negotiate a part exchange so we walked into town instead.  After buying our cheese (mandatory for a visit here) we had coffee in the square on a wet evening.  Another Masterchef meal on board, whilst the rally enjoyed their reunion in the clubhouse.

Sunday.  Free parking.  Our day started with heavy rain & we set of for Markem, arriving just before mid-day.   We were able to moor alongside for a change and to add to that pleasure the Harbour Master explained that “ As this is the Queen’s harbour , we could do so free of charge.” 

This little town was busy with local visitors and overseas tourists arriving by ferry from Volendam, a nice Sunday afternoon trip.  We visited the museum and the clog maker, learning about how the town was rebuilt after it was last flooded big-time, in “ Da Groot Watersnood von 1916 “  That great flood destroyed nearly everything, fishing was no longer viable, only the very brave and hardy stayed on.  Various information boards around town highlight the old buildings remaining & explain how the place was rebuilt over time.

Alongside at Markem & the Harbour Master’s office.                      

Monday.  Weather looking up? 

High due over Paris and a series of depressions going further North.  Watching that now, but needing more detail before we are ready to pop across to the UK before it worsens again at the end of the week. 

(L)  Nice day for sailing?  The Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI) provided our forecasts.  (R) Markem – harbour entrance.

Meanwhile, Amsterdam calls.    Four and a half hours sailing and we’re there at 1330.  Rob has a surprise in store, a marina right in the middle of the city, just a (free) ferry hop from Amsterdam Central Station.  Another box mooring with a huge leap off the bow – this has nice views of the river traffic, ferries and barges competing for space.  Into town for dinner and an exploration on foot. Cycling is the most popular way to go, but it’s crazy and very close amongst the rush hour traffic.  We soon learn that Coffee Shops don’t really sell coffee and far from being a few in discreet locations, they are everywhere.  Our Café does us a good meal and we stroll back for a good night’s rest without too much temptation. Although we haven’t all read up on our inland waterway lights, everyone on board knows the meaning of the red lights around town!

Tuesday, is our day off in Amsterdam.   A huge choice of things to do!  We go different ways, mostly visiting museums and soaking up the atmosphere in between.  Between us we visit; the Maritime Museum and a new interactive Science facility for young people, Van Gogh Museum, the Resistance Museum.  The one day travel pass at 7 Euros saves the feet and makes it easy to use the trams to get around.

The ferry was free, busy in the rush hour.  Amsterdam, easy to get around and enjoyable to visit..

Wednesday. The North Sea crossing.  We made an early start at 0700, motoring then motor sailing from Amsterdam along the North Sea Canal to Ijmuiden on the coast.  There’s a bit of commercial traffic, but no yachts.  Grey sky, and a fresh breeze.  We ate breakfast underway and arrived in about 2 hours.  

We had been following the forecast, having selected a departure which we hoped would give us a weather window to avoid the worst of strong winds, which were regrettably likely to head us at some stage.  Leaving the final lock the extent of the wind problem became more evident.  The wind was already strong, even behind the breakwater it was tending to the upper end of Force 4, with a sea to match.  But the wind had an unpleasant edge to it; this was a wind that was building, not decreasing.  As we left the cover of the breakwater, we headed into a rough uneven sea.  We were making 6-7 knots under 3 reefs on the main and reefed foresail, but  we would soon be headed directly in to the weather The boat was lively but still manageable, but became wetter as we head butted every second or third wave.  Watches, 4 hours (& 2 at 1800/2000) which had started from our departure, were working well.

At change of watch before darkness, wind and sea state had increased again, with gusts over 30 knots.  Below, contents of the cooking utensils drawer had twice crashed across the floor.  Hot cooking was “off” and at change over crew tried to make it from deck to horizontal in the quickest way possible.  We took in the foresail and decided to motorsail as best we could, to maintain our homeward course, but it was into the weather.  Seasickness took its toll, even in those taking Stugeron.  Overnight the sky cleared giving us a clear moonrise – appropriately Edam cheese coloured.  A shooting star brightened the spirits.  But it was a very long night, wind and sea continued unabated until well into the next day.  Our progress was slow at times down to 1.5 knots.  We hove to at one stage to eat some hot food with a measure of stability – but while moving back towards Holland at 3 knots!   By mid afternoon Thursday we had the benefit of some lee from the land.  Sizewell A & B were a welcome sight as we progressed towards Shotley, finally tying up at 2030.  It took 37 hours in all from our departure from Amsterdam.  We cleaned up, had hot showers, ate and took some well earned rest.

Friday.  Our bow thruster problem.  On arrival, we filled with water, diesel, no gas - out of stock!  We spotted a problem. 

On leaving Holland the bow thruster fuse had blown, John had replaced it.  Now, in the calm of the marina he spotted the cause – a large chunk of blue tarpaulin had been sucked in to the bow thruster, two feet of blue plastic sheet was sticking out to starboard.  We tried to remove it carefully, but it was stuck and resisted all attempts to remove it safely.

Rob phoned the yacht husband – and it was agreed pending a more detailed inspection & to avoid any damage - to tackle the problem next time the boat was lifted. 

We relaxed on a trip up the river to Ipswich, sailing when we could.  We had lunch on the way and on our return, set about cleaning the boat for our departure.

Saturday.  Homeward Bound!  Scrubbed Freyja off, settled our debts - now converted from Euros - and set off for home.  Freyja was back!

The Baltic Strollers 2011

   

Tuesday 30^th.

The Strollers arrived at Luton airport by various means for the flight to Hamburg then the short 3 hour train ride to Stralsund. With a little persuasion the hotel reception stayed open to book us all in but Mssrs. Haynes and Yewman had to return to their National Service days and brought a whole new meaning to sharing! The skipper, who was also sharing had sprayed himself with mosquito repellent which made them wish they’d brought their service gas masks!

 Wednesday 31^st.

In the gloomy overcast Stralsund skies the Strollers woke to a rain filled and high winds day in the Baltic. A very picturesque tall ship lay moored to the harbour wall. On taking on Freyja the crew set about sorting power and Freyja’s needs before strolling and jogging around the town to find the local supermarket. Several trips and sore hands later Freyja was viticuled and as dinner approached so the rain cleared for a very pleasant early evening drink in the cockpit.

    Thursday 1^st Sept.

An early start (06.25) saw the crew up and forsaking breakfast to make their way from Stralsund. Heading up a winding narrow passage through picturesque nature reserves Freyja headed for Warnemünde. With the skipper ever keen for good summer weather he donned sun block and glasses to be greeted by the days heaviest downpour. Past Rügen Island and Hiddensee we steamed into the wind. At Darsser Ort we turned southwest lifting Freyja’s sails and moving along at 6 –7 knots for three enjoyable hours. Steaming into Warnemünde, dodging the odd ferry, cruise liner and local harbour ferry boats we made fast in the Alter Ström old town harbour. A pleasant day for the Strollers! I’m reminded here to mention the few porpoise/ dolphins that gave Freyja a passing glance off from Warnemünde. In keeping with the Strollers usual antics the idea of a train ride to Rostock and a walk around the town was suggested.

Two brave crew jumped at the chance and plans were hatched.

Friday  2^nd.

The crew awoke to a beautiful Baltic morning of blue cloudless skies and the locals going about there daily lives. Several strollers headed to the train for the Rostok trip while the others wandered around viewing Warnemünde. After a few hours, and more victualling, Freyja set to sea for Wismar in light and slight seas. Arriving in Wismar and an interesting passage up the narrow channel past a local ‘square rigger’ we moored on pontoons that reminded the skipper of Cherbourg in the old days, when good balance was essential. The crew sat to its first good cup of tea in three days, having finally found some reasonable teabags in the town. Tomorrow’s forecast gave a good chance for a sail to Travemünde.

Saturday 3^rd.

The strollers woke to a beautiful Baltic morning of bright skies and light winds. A quick stroll of the town and a quick check of St Nickolas church, built 1380-1508, saw the crew assemble on Freyja. A few locals began to make their way offshore by using their sailing skills rather than by engine. After admiring a local’s ability to sail off a berth, common sense prevailed and Freyja’s engine was used to leave her berth and head out of Wismar. Once out of the Wismar channel Freyja was hailed by the local Police boat that cordially enquired of the local port, the direction plus checking that we were all English. Satisfied they left us to wrestle out Freyja’s cruising chute in very light airs. Unable to make more than 3 knots in the light winds that by now were dropping even more, we reverted back to the engine. The first sight of Travemünde was a large multi story building. As we approached the safe watermark it appeared that half of Germany was out racing in the light airs and calm seas all be it in a slight fog. On passing through the moles the square-rigger Passat could be seen, bringing a few comments on how magnificent she looked. Arriving at Bob’s Marina, a box mooring was found and the crew moored at the first attempt, probably keen to go ashore for a stroll. Fish and chips German style eaten, the strollers walked the town seafront to discover that it was a sailing regatta weekend at Travemünde. Glad we got a berth. With the large ferries heading out to sea every few hours creating a wash, the crew bedded down for a lumpy night’s rest.

Sunday 4^th.

A bright but blustery day greeted the Baltic strollers on a Sunday off in Travemünde. Plans for a trip to Lübeck were hatched over a Freyja cooked breakfast as the crew took a slow start to the day. So with breakfast of eggs, bacon, toast and juice done the intrepid strollers headed to the bus stop for the run to Lübeck. Walking around the ‘old city’ rebuilt after 1945, the Strollers took refuge from the rain in a tavern open since 1802!  A visit to the marzipan museum, some narrow streets, plus St Peters, St Mary’s and the town hall, all built originally in the 1300’s, and two main gates to the city built around 1472 were viewed. Returning to Freyja, plans for the sail to Heiliganhafen and the evening meal took place, while the purser checked the books after a small dispute with the marina over payment for the replacement gas bottle.

Monday 5^th.

The Strollers woke for an early morning start to leaden skies and wet stuff falling on Freyja’s decks. With the weather forecast for increasing wind over the next few days the chances of an enjoyable sail seemed to diminish by the second. After an interesting use of the marina showers that had the habit of washing clothes and shoes along with the person, the crew indulged in a quick breakfast before getting under way. Slipping from the box mooring past another ferry entering the harbour Freyja headed out on the glassy sea. Away from Travemünde the German navy paid close inspection at 18 knots, possibly after our skipper, along with a plane and helicopter. Further towards Fehmarn Island the clouds parted and the sun gleamed down on Freyja and the Strollers. At the turn and entrance to Fehmarnsund to go under the bridge the winds rose and the skies darkened into a squally rain shower. As Freyja cleared the bridge and headed into Heiliganhafen a flotilla of 2 and 3 masted classic sailing ships appeared on the starboard quarter all heading for Heiliganhafen. Freyja led them in only to discover the there was a 2-day sea shanty event in the harbour. Not ones to miss a chance the Strollers dug out Freyja of Orwell tops from the kit bags but no music or words could be found to allow the English to compete against the singing of the Dutch and German groups. Strolling around the town, ice creams were had and a daunting forecast dampened the mood of the crew for the run to the British Kiel Yacht Club next day. Force 6-7 winds and rain, was the daunting outlook. The crew headed ashore to indulge in the beer and music being laid on.

Tuesday 6^th.

An early start greeted the crew as the skipper chose to be away sooner rather than later. It looked like a fair morning to travel to Kiel. Showering, the German way, with several other naked yachting types, senior in age to the classic ships that arrived the day before, and quick bite to eat, Freyja and crew set off for the passage through the local firing range. Taking the Keil-Fehnarsund way we moved past the safe water mark in a force 4 with gusts to 6. Within minutes we were hailed by a German warship, in German, and dialogue started that pushed Freyja 9 miles offshore due to the 7-mile firing range being used. With the main battened down to a postage stamp the intrepid Strollers headed to Haufpoint 3, 15 miles out of our way. One stroller, duty to the fore, stayed on the helm as waves and spray crashed over Freyja’s dodger. Turning on H3, straight into wind, a long tedious trip of wave punching ensued as Kiel loomed in the distance, the U boat memorial guiding our way. Turning into the shipping lane the Navy were at us again as a fleet auxiliary lead Freyja into Kieler Hafen. It peeled away, towards the canal, as we headed for the British Kiel Yacht Club. As we entered a man came to the jetty to inform us that there was only one berth free. With winds gusting to 7 it was a good job the box mooring was big enough for a 70ft trimaran. Once settled, and breakfast ordered for next morning, the Strollers went off to view the local classic boat Flamingo, owned by Goring in the war years and now part of the yacht clubs fleet. An evening of slappy hull and noisy rigging lulled the crew to their bunks.

Wednesday 7^th.

After a noisy night of slapping and banging ropes, the 06:30 alarm clock sounded an early start for the Baltic Strollers. 7am, full English breakfast in the yacht club greeted the Strollers and a first good cup of English tea in the week. Fed, and ablutions accomplished, Freyja was slipped from her box mooring and away on the last leg of the trip. Heading down the 1 mile to the canal in 20 knot winds whipped and swiped at Freyja. With the lights on white we approached the lock only to see them turn red! Close quarter manouvering in the wind was a handful so we were grateful of the quick change to white. Once in the lock, we tied Freyja up to the links on some very slippy low pontoons until the lockmaster wanted us to move her forward in the lock. In so doing two crew nearly went for a quick swim in the lock.

Once free, Freyja headed up the Kiel Canal with a line of large container ships. Hampered by strong gusts of wind and rain squalls the day went from bad to worse. Finally making it to Rendsburg at 16:40 after nearly 7 hours, a weary bunch of Strollers tied up in the marina. 142 litres of fuel later and one last box mooring the trip was over. Freyja needed a wash and brush up for the next crew and its current crew needed a good meal. A quick stroll around the town brought the crew back to the marina and a meal for 1 big enough for 3 in the Riverside restaurant.

Freyja sailed well, did what she was designed to do despite the Strollers inabilities. Onward Freyja as we fly home. See you again soon.

 

James Allen

 

The Baltic Strollers 2011-09-09

J Miller – Skipper, D Yewman - Mate/Purser/Chef, M Haynes – Steward 1^st class, 

J Cranwell Ward - Tour guide, P Seagar - Roving role, J Allen – Odd Job & Reporter.

Ystad to Stralsund – August 17^th to 24^th 2011

Crew : Brian Barnes, John Garside, John Smith, Robin Cole, Kevin Sutton, Mick Berry

We all met at Terminal 5 for the flight to Copenhagen and onward train journey to Ystad in Sweden. As our arrival was late in the evening we had arranged to stay over in Ystad on the Monday and Tuesday nights with the intention of being tourists. The accommodation was in the former railway station, which we later learned was the “police station” in the Swedish stories of Kurt Wallander. Breakfast was in Fridolf’s Konditori – another Wallander  film set.

Ystad is a lovely town and well worth the extra day for sightseeing, if nothing else than the sight of the Polish Army marching through the town playing ABBA hits.

Once aboard Freyja, Kurtberg and his team soon learned that there had been electrical problems and so John Gartinson and Robin Coleberg with their forensic training set about investigating the problem. The rest of Kurtberg’s team, John Smithberg, Stefan Sutton and Mick Berryson set about getting supplies for the forthcoming trip.

A report had come in about some unusual smells under the berth in the fore cabin which suggested some illegal trafficking of roll mop herring and the team were expecting to sail off in pursuit towards the Danish island of Bornholm.

One case however eluded the team for there were reports of a phantom horn blower playing every 15 minutes during the late evening. But although the horn was heard, nothing other than a derisory hand wave from the church tower was seen. The case remains open.

After three days in Ystad it was good to get to sea, but although the wind was favourable in direction it needed the engine to boost the speed in order to get to Allinge in good time. Allinge is a lovely little harbour and we were most fortunate to get the last place alongside the harbour wall. Wifi was a bit primitive however for the aerial was propped up in the harbour master’s window and the only way to get reception was to sit on a bench outside the office.

                                              

That evening the team set about their task of finding the illicit roll mops and went under cover into a magnificent fish smokery restaurant where you could eat all you wished of smoked herring, eel, mackerel, salmon etc finishing off with as much ice cream as you could fill into your bowl.

The harbour master warned us of an impending weather system approaching and so the boat was made ready for the storm and Kurtberg’s team made the most of the next couple of days investigating the illicit trade in local fish restaurants. Luckily we were in the lee of the Island.

Next morning the forensic team of Gartinson and Coleberg continued with their investigation of the boat’s electrical system, whilst the rest of the team used their surveillance skills to observe a suspicious church on a piece of isolated headland. They were disappointed to find the church hadn’t been used for anything sinister since the 14^th Century.

With the weather closing in Kurtberg’s team were restricted to investigating unusual events around the town. Close inspection of a travelling performing arts group – why did they need to dust all the railings along the sea front, why was that girl doing handstands on the town sculpture, did the man in the orange suit really need to take all those videos and what was the man in the dark suit and top hat really doing? All very suspicious.

The team were getting concerned that Coleberg’s diagnostic skills may suffer and he might develop fins if he didn’t soon get some red meat.

Kurtberg and Gartinson located two sites of bronze age sets of graffiti images. Stefan Sutton was very curious about the source of their red ochre? How did it keep its colour for so long?

 

After three days the weather showed signs of improvement so preparations were made for the team to leave on the next morning.

Where would the roll mop trail lead next?

Would Kurtberg completely succumb to ice cream dependency?

Would Coleberg ever eat fish again?

The original task set for Kurtberg’s team was to deliver Freyja to Stralsund in Germany and so next morning they set off in a westerly direction for the long journey towards the German Island of Rugen. In particular the little port of Lohme and as is usual on these trips the course was directly into the wind.

From Google,  Lohme is an attractive little harbour but Google doesn’t do justice to the appalling smell and the 237 steep steps up to the village.

However the splendid hotel with good food and a piano playing gently in the background certainly improved matters.

To get to the final destination it was decided to travel Northwards and then Westwards, past Hiddensee and then finally on to Stralsund.

With a splendid sail initially to see the white cliffs and the famous Konigstuhl, Freyja turned Northwards towards the top of Rugen before changing course and motoring towards Hiddensee.  Thirty minutes in the bouncy sea the engine coughed and died.

Freyja was turned southwards and a small part of the Genoa was unfurled whilst Berryson and his team took apart the fuel filters and did a number of tests to ascertain the cause of the breakdown. One filter was dirtier than expected but not enough to cause alarm and so the team changed their plans and sailed towards Sassnitz. A strong suspicion fell on the roll mop traffickers showing that Kurtberg’s team were obviously getting close.

Once within reach the Harbour Master was contacted and he arranged for an SAR boat to be dispatched to tow Freyja into port.

 

The harbour Master also organised a local marine repair company to investigate our problem and it soon became clear that we had discovered the source of the illicit roll mops, which developed from a mysterious black jelly.

It became even more sinister when Kurtberg was asked to accompany a young man with ZOLL emblazoned on the back of his black uniform to his vehicle. Was he part of the gang? However Kurtberg managed to escape by signing “M Duck” on the form thrust at him.

It became clear that this was dangerous territory and so the decision was made to abandon Freyja in Sassnitz and go into hiding in various parts of the UK.

The team had to stay on call at any time ready to leap into action for another exciting episode of the Ystad Team.

(translated from the original by John Smithberg)

 

MY LUCKY DAY, or 10^th leg of Long Trip

“Stand on the box”  I was ordered, and then expertly frisked by a very personable, blonde young lady as I passed through security at Copenhagen Airport, I had emptied my pockets completely, watch off, belt off but still set off the alarm; I stepped down from the box only to be ordered “turn round, you do have a backside”, so back on the box it was hands on all over again. (It never happened like this at Gatwick).  The day had started in Ystad in Sweden when I, with two other crew members and a local, was in the showers, which were not in cubicles but four in a row,  when the cleaning  lady  (a girl in her early twenties I would guess, but in uniform so it was all right)  came in and proceeded to methodically clean the facility as if we were not there, actually mopping the floor either side of my feet without so much as an excuse me as the shower stopped.    At this point another local entered and stripped off for his shower without a moments thought.  Oh well, we were in Sweden.

Back at the airport  Gate F5 was now showing on the departure boards, so off we set on what became an extraordinary hike, with walking times written in big letters on the floor to the gates,(over 15 minute at the start) on arrival at gate, pass through immigration into large final departure lounge, and what was missing? The chairs.  Not a single one there so making myself comfortable on the floor (lino tiles) we were soon called to the gate and held in a cattle loading  pen, boarding pass checked and ready in single file at the door to board, but what else was missing? yes, you guessed it, The  airplane.  This came in ten minutes later, ground staff trying hard to speed things up we watched the arriving passengers walk to the building with the last family, a woman of Middle Eastern appearance and dress with four children (may actually have been more), masses of hand baggage, stopped to take pictures of themselves in front of the plane, bags all over the place.   Nothing was going to hurry them  but getting the ground staff to do a group shot was definitely not going to happen.

Day 1 had seen us arrive to find beautiful sunshine in Copenhagen to take over Freyja from David Bedborough who gave us the low down on all the local wrinkles, but first we had to get a taxi to Kastrup Marina.  There was one taxi for six buried halfway back in the rank, this was manoeuvred out, crossed over the pavement and came down the road on the other side.   We stowed our baggage and piled in then I gave the driver the address of the marina which seemed not  to impress him overmuch, so we set off and about three minutes later we turned into the marina. It had to be a very good tip after that but he took it in good part. As in most Danish marinas we had to buy a plastic card which came out of a machine at the Harbour office, this covered mooring charges, showers, electricity and anything else on offer, actually worked quite well until you had to queue up for showers.

Day 2 saw us on the move, NE wind about 20 knots and with main double reefed we headed north to Helsingor which, after a very exhilarating sail to best windward and a few tacks turned out to be very full, so managed to raft up and break out the beer for much enjoyed relaxation now that the holiday had really begun. Then the rain started, now huddled below killing time until dinner.  Must suggest we get a cockpit tent with the next boat, these seem to be very popular nowadays and one almost feels deprived without.

Day 3  Set off dead downwind  in 18 kts,  so under Genny alone we made excellent progress down to Limhamn, passing close to a tanker which AIS warned us was aground so now keeping a very close eye on depth we snuck past without any real difficulty, entered the marina to find plenty of room.  Choose your box mooring and go for it, lines deftly cast over the posts by enthusiastic crew, bowman tumbling over onto pontoon and stem made off, time now to sort out the niceties, rereeve the stern lines to diagonally cross to take care of strong cross wind, All done as if by magic in a couple of minutes now able to sit down and  enjoy a long cool beer, until..  “was that a spot of rain?”  Oh yes it was and a lot more to come, so back down below, batten down the hatches and sit it out until, waterproofs out, a dash for dinner.

Day 4  Now in Sweden the facilities plunged a little  downhill, lost were the nice shower cubicles of Denmark.  Row of three close shower heads  here, so you have to keep your elbows in…..  but useful if you want to share the soap.       Very civilised start at 0900 as usual, no tides up here to consider.  Little wind  today from more or less behind us and decided to sail slowly and go into Koge, passed the tanker still aground and, heading into the main channel, passed under the huge centre suspension span of the double decker bridge linking Denmark to Sweden.   An amazing feat of engineering to my untrained eye and very impressive (still looked as if the mast would clout the underside as we approached but actually we had about three times the height clearance) Beyond  the bridge was one of many huge wind farms (why do they call them “farms”?) which abound up here and the main  channel passed within what appeared to almost be touching distance, no exclusion zone, one is simply expected  to avoid hitting them.  Lunch on the hoof, rolls with cheese and ham with sliced tomatoes and mayonnaise became a two handed job so helmsman was struggling to hold the course using elbows (I think) with apologies for slices of tomato and mayonnaise dribbling over “the steering column” (we think he meant the binnacle) holding the  course now clearly of very secondary importance  he was  soon relieved of duty by an unhappy navigator as the cleaning squad moved in.  Later, arrived in Koge and tied up on one side of a very wide box mooring at the edge of a hammerhead, now back in Denmark, all mod cons, card system etc. again.  Beer time in a dry cockpit……  Very nice restaurant in marina beckoned and not long after we were inside rain was lashing the windows, oh it’ll stop by the time we leave.  Got very wet on the dash back to the boat, who had to put it at the far end of a very long pontoon then?

Day 5  Dawned with blue skies, light wind and warm sunshine so dig out the shorts, legs getting their second shock in a month, they got a bit of a tan on a recent fortnight in  France so did look fairly respectable.    So we  set off for Rodvig, running the engine for half an hour since we had not managed to get onto shore power.  A couple of miles out a shout from the  eagle eyed mate “Skipper there’s a lifejacket or lifebuoy 2 cables over to starboard, should we go over?   Yes, turning we headed over to this inflated orange  lump soon to find a child’s toy inflatable on a piece of string, orange in colour with a face, stubby arms sticking out with big fingers, spindly legs and toes all about the size of an overlarge  horseshoe buoy. “Oh, that’s  Sponge Bob Square Pants”  claimed a delighted Kerry, ( she did seem to know quite a lot about Sponge Bob, don’t know why though.) So onwards and upwards as they say, engine off and  soon breaking out the cruising chute, however couldn’t free the spinnaker halyard which appeared to be trapped up at the masthead.  We dropped the genoa to the deck and found the spinnaker halyard was routed between the forestay and genoa halyard above the Furlex top swivel which held it nicely trapped.  Now freed, genoa rehoisted (it now goes up higher and takes up slack at bottom, Are we the first to use it this year?) cruising chute set and flying, poled out with preventer on Freyja romping  along at 6+ knots in 6 knots of wind and feeling really good, a happy crew and a happy skipper.  Arrived at Rodvig Havn, a small and compact harbour with alongside visitors moorings just inside entrance, with one berth available next to the wall.  This is a very picturesque village and we were soon three boats out, becoming very full later on.  Dinner was in a very posh hotel followed by ice creams on the way back to the boat.  Problem was how do you ask for rum and raisin in Danish?  All the flavours were written up for you to select so it was really pot luck and Tom should start doing the lottery because he got it right.

Day 6 and fog, not just fog, but serious fog, dense fog, wet fog, glasses useless for seeing through, really should have contact lenses.  36 miles to  run today, so radar on and drive towards Gislovs Lage, soon decided there was wind on the beam , so sails out, engine off  and gliding along  at 6 knots, still very foggy.  Monitoring AIS, and listening now the engine was off.  Passing just below the end of a traffic separation lane, shown on the chart with a very prominent roundabout  for an east going  turn a mile or two north of us seemed to capture the imagination of  crew member Kerry, “a roundabout at sea, no less” but this rotten crew had to disappoint her by letting her know that because of the fog she wouldn’t be able to see it.. ..    Arrived at Gislovs Lage, a delightful, rustic little harbour which time has passed by, now in Sweden basics will apply once again.  Moor anywhere you can, we rafted up one out on the west side wall, which turned out to be a good choice as it was near the facilities and cafes, and harbour office which incorporated a  bit of a museum, not much to see but, to the delight of Jerry, they did have a paraffin lamp made in England about circa 1960 on show, I did wonder if I might have a few old relics at home I could send out to them, I think my loft is full of junk which I am sure would  be  of considerable interest to the visiting Swedish public. Wonder who I should contact? Perhaps the Swedish ambassador?  A beautiful hot  day with the sun still trying to break through the fog prompted a deputation from the girls, it was either mutiny or Jerry’s shoes had to go, they were rather old, laying about and pretty evil but after being consigned to the anchor well the pong not only persisted but became extremely offensive for the next couple of hours (think it may have been sewage emptying day)  So the victualling party  decided now was a good time for an expedition ashore to purchase lunch for the morrow and  also found the only restaurant in the area, a very basic pizza eatery which turned out to have an enormous selection and very good too.  Everyone speaks perfect English up here, even the smallest children so there was never a language problem with menu translation and we were made really welcome throughout the whole week.

Day 7 and the usual early start, up at 0630 and off for a shower.  Facilities were unisex with two small wooden huts, each with three loos and two showers (In separate cubicles) with each door on the outside of the hut.  On arrival there was a woman outside waiting one side and her daughter at the other hut so Tom and I joined the queue, one either side.  Eventually Jerry, who had been early enough to bag one shower my side came out and the woman and her daughter went in together.  After a few minutes discussing this dire situation we realised there was no showering going on or lights in the other cubicles but still couldn’t open the door, until Jerry (rugby second row) put both hands on the handle foot up and monumental strength wrenched the door open, we had just spent fifteen minutes  waiting outside empty cabins which simply had sticky doors.  At least they were free and hot once you got in.    So showered, rosy cheeked, breakfasted and ready for the off on our last day, just 22 miles to Ystad.  Beautiful, very hot sunny day already, light winds saw us sailing gently eastwards arriving early afternoon, to park  in a finger berth which had a good pontoon one side and a floating rail the other about four inches wide, Kerry, that side, had a little panic when she thought she had to jump down and walk this tightrope.  Raised the ECYD flag hoist  and went for stroll round town.  Ysad is a beautiful, medieval holiday resort and well worth a visit so I was rather pleased  I had been asked to hand over the boat here.

All in all we had had a very varied week, no two days the same and all enjoyable, some very good sailing with hardly any engine use in a super cruising area, non tidal so civilised starts and the week just flew by.  Our train journey back to Copenhagen went smoothly as planned, however it was at this point I suddenly remembered I had forgotten to warn the next crew, Paul Brereton and Peter Burry, to expect to have the company of a young lady with a mop if they are in the showers around 0640 next morning, but who knows? It might just have encouraged an early start.

Vic Crawshaw

With apologies for spending too much time in the shower, but we were all very clean

“The Copenhagen Sopranos”

Fredericia to Copenhagen

20 to 27 July

Crew:  David Bedborough (skipper), Alan Apling, Roger Springett, Mike Marshall, Tony Turner, Gordon McInnes.

Wednesday found the boat in Fredericia with the sun beaming down and no wind.

The previous crew (including David acting as mate) cleaned the boat and made ready for next crew.  They had stayed with Gordon at his Copenhagen home and were travelling by train due to arrive at 12.00 hrs.

They arrived on time.

The boat was victualled and we set off for Juelsminde - as recommended by a friendly German the day before in Middlefart (we could not get any relevant T-shirts).  There was no wind so we motored the 16 miles.  The previous two weeks had found harbours very full by 16.00 hrs so it was with some concern that we approached the marina (the new extension was not even on the charts).  We fuelled up paying an extortionate 3.8% surcharge for using a “foreign” credit card.  We then found that the new harbour had plenty of spaces in nice big box moorings.  Ate on shore.

Thursday dawned with a grey sky and wind NW 4/5.  A good sail to Ballen on the island of Samso (30 miles) where we found the harbour full to capacity.  Laid alongside a raft of 5.  The Swedish lady on the inside boat (affectionately referred to as the Rottweiler) was a bit upset and went ballistic when anyone tried to lay alongside us.  The harbour master then visited and advised we did not allow anyone outside of us and that we should put out an anchor due to the threatened blow form the NW that night.  In all we sent some 4 boats away - 2 of which left the harbour and anchored outside.  That night saw a fantastic sky, but red sky at night is NOT a sailors delight!

Dined on board.

Friday dawned wet and very windy so we stayed put and ate on shore that night.

Saturday morning was still grey but we slipped at 06.30 hrs bound for Hundested at the entrance to the Isefjord.  We had to motor for the first 4 hrs as the wind was light and right astern (SW) and noticed that the batteries (down to 60% after two nights without shore power) were drawing about 30 amps at 14 volts.  This would be about 2 amps at 240 volts which would strain any onshore power trips.  Changed course to due East and had a very good sail.  Room in harbour when we arrived; the skipper’s theory being that there were fewer Germans who seem to stay to the West by Jutland and the Little Belt.  Ate in a very good but basic fish and chip bar at the marina.

Sunday morning we set off for Helsingborg in Sweden.  The plan had been to go to Roskilde, at the bottom of the Isefjord, to see the Viking ship museum but the lost day at Samso ruled that out so we decided to concentrate on Ven (of which more later).  Wind was SE 4/5 so a good sail until we started to harden up into the Sound.  The wind picked up to SE 7 and how it rained!

A fun trip across the separation zone into Helsingborg (left changing the courtesy flag until we were safely tied up).  There were lots of restaurants close to hand and we ate at a Chinese restaurant - in Sweden if five of you order the set meal you do not all have to share from dishes on a hot plate, each diner is served the various items on his own plate.

We had moored up outside a Najad 391 and on returning from the restaurant we had a long chat with the owner about his cockpit canopy - Brian to note it is very easy to fit!  The owner said it was like “having another room” but we noticed he had a folding wheel and a couple of extra 12 volt outlets!

Monday was grey but not much wind.

But the crew were full of beans and ready to go:

Set off for Kyrkbacken on the Island of Ven to see the Tycho Brahe museum.  A short motor passing a nice square rigger and arrived to find the harbour pretty empty.

Found flags at half mast showing respect for those slaughtered in Oslo.

So who and why Tycho Brahe?

You may have to zoom in (just click on the picture).

Ate on board:

Tuesday morning, bright sun and no wind so we decided to look into Copenhagen and then to Kastrup marina.

The skipper wanted to go under the big bridge but when he was told that it was not an opening bridge he lost interest.

The skipper had suggested Malmo but Vic wanted Kastrup as it is close to the airport.  Fuelled up and then had three goes at getting into box moorings which were about 5 cm too narrow.  Finally found one wide enough but could not get power.  Decided on the end of a pontoon.  Moored port side to but power lead not long enough so changed to starboard side to - all to help another skipper!

Wednesday mid-day Vic arrived and we departed.

BUT WAIT - WHY THE COPENHAGEN SOPRANOS YOU ASK.  HERE IS THE ANSWER.

Click the link The Movie

How was it done?

And finally:

Click the link Director’s Outtake

FREYJA 13-20 JULY 2011 KORSOR TO FREDERICIA

Crew: Alan Dransfield, David Bedborough, Gill Sugden, John Cranwell-Ward, David Bailey & Harry Temmink.
 
Three of us flew to Denmark a day early to make sure that we saw the leaving crew. We travelled to Korsor, the Freyja starting point, and were pleased to see Jean and  her crew looking calm and contented. There were no problems. We agreed to return the next day at 1200, just before Jean and her crew departed.
 
13 July. We arrived at Freyja’s berth and said goodbye to the leaving crew, loaded our luggage and looked over Freyja. Shopping loomed next. We agreed to sail to Nyborg the following day. As for eating, we had decided that in view of the warnings of expensive restaurant food we would eat mainly on board,  but treated ourselves to a meal at Korsor marina restaurant.

14 July. We prepared to sail. The weather seemed reasonable and the printed forecast raised no great problem. However, two people at the harbourmaster’s office warned against leaving. There was a local prediction of strong winds and heavy rain to come. It was raining. We stayed.  It got worse!

15 July. We revised our travel plans and set out for Svendborg at 10 am. Wind sw3-4. Rain. Covered 27 miles.

16 July. Today, Svendborg to Sonderborg. More rain but gentle winds for the 35 miles trip.
 
17 July. From Sonderborg to Assens.  35 miles. We started by motoring up north along a channel between Als and Sundeved and then turned north east and reached Assens after running before a following wind.  More rain.

18 July. We had a discussion about the next place to go but Middlefart was the clear winner. We could send postcards home to give sophisticated pleasure.  Wind a little stronger than usual at F5/6.  Arrived Middlefart.  No postcards.  Not one, but we made our own.  [see below]

 

 

19 July. We had planned to arrive early at our handover place and we covered the remaining eight miles in good time. Gentle winds.

 

20 July The diesel station was being redeveloped as part of a major scheme. Luckily, our mate was staying on as skipper of the next leg, so we handed over the diesel money and left for home.

by Gill Sugden

ECYD Trip to Denmark 6th t0 13th July

Wednesday 6th  - Korsør

We arrived in Korsør to handover at midday. We dumped our bags and some started on the engine service whilst two of us took a car into town to store up, and managed to find a supply of Camping Gas in the local Statoil garage. Went and had dinner in the marina restaurant as it was convenient and we were starting to flag after the journey. All said they enjoyed the meal, and the portions were certainly generous.

Crew at Vejro

 Thursday 7th - Korsør

Had a tricky first departure from the box mooring with a side wind not helping. Once out in the open sea, we practiced “Man Overboard!” drills. Typically the wind had dropped to near zero. We then set course for the island of Vejrø under motor. During the trip we came across a large work boat with at least four anchors out and surrounded with orange buoys which caused us to make a detour. The last half a mile was extremely shallow down to under 0.8 m in places, but we made it into the harbour which was rather deserted. Perhaps it was the £45 berth fee that put people off. We spent a couple of hours exploring the island before dinner, and found abundant animal life, from the local black cattle, sheep, pigs and poultry to wild deer and rabbits and a large male pheasant which sprang out of the grass barely five yards from us. The harbourmaster/ restaurateur told us that the whole island was an eco-friendly area. Later he lit a barbeque for us in one of the griddles in the harbour area and we cooked our dinner on it saving on the precious Camping Gas!!

Friday 8th - Vejrø

Awoke to heavy rain which stayed with us for most of the day and left us thoroughly wet by the lunch time. Another tricky leave as we had an even stronger cross wind. The wind was heading us at first, so we had to motor, but later on we managed to run under the jib for a couple of hours. Thankfully we arrived in Vordingborg  in sunshine which gave us a chance to dry out. Another narrow, shallow channel to navigate, it was getting to be like sailing on the East Coast!  We were rafted up three out next to a Finn and a German as there were no box moorings free. We paid the harbour dues in an automatic machine and carried on through an old ruined castle and small park to the town for stores from the local supermarket. Because free wifi was available here, I was able to get the forecast for the next few days on my iTouch. It didn’t look too bad at all.

Saturday 9th - Vordingborg

Yet another wind-on-the-beam departure. We were getting good at these! We motored at the start as the channel was narrow, shallow and twisted like a country road. It lead us under a 20 m bridge and then to some open water where we managed to run with the jib out and turn the engine off at last. The approach to the island of Nyord was the shallowest yet, with 0.1 m appearing from time to time. To make matters worse, the tiny harbour left little room for manoeuvre, and so we decided to moor alongside the pier, rather than struggle into a box mooring. We were glad we had arrived before 15:00, as the harbour filled up rapidly after that, and we were amazed at how many boats were shoe-horned in. This early arrival tactic served us well throughout the trip as we were usually able to pick our berth. The facilities in Nyord were very elementary, consisting of one toilet and shower for each sex plus an overflow toilet each. This for approximately forty boats. The only general store was housed in a large shed a short walk from the harbour, and its stock was very basic.

Jean at the Helm

Sunday 10th – Nyord

At last the wind was blowing us off, and the leaving was somewhat easier than the arrival, once we’d waited a while for the harbour to clear. We left Nyord and slowly motored the next eight miles over shallows ranging from 1.5 m to the occasional 0 m on the depth gauge, but finally reached the open sea and 2.5 m. The journey reminded me of crossing the Ijsselmeer. Once in the deeper water, we hoisted the main and jib and had a pleasant sail down the east side of Møn. On rounding the south east corner, we dropped the sails and motored past the fish farms to Klintholm. We arrived early and found a secure alongside berth with readily-available water and electricity. Shortly after, the usual steady stream of arrivals began, including two rather handsome traditional sail-trainers belonging to the Danish navy. We were rafted onto by a 44ft X yacht, with some friendly Germans on board. I had the chance to try out my very rusty schoolboy German to get some useful information on my trip along the German coast. The town had a Spar supermarket close by where we replenished our stores, and a delightful delicatessen where we purchased smoked salmon and mackerel plus fresh prawn and crab salad. All extremely delicious.

Monday 11th - Klintholm

We sprung off the berth using Peter Burry’s method of getting out 90 degrees to the pontoon, and it worked very well. As usual the wind was on the nose and light, so we motored for the first couple of hours through a plague of hoverflies. A change of course and a stronger breeze enabled us to sail for an hour before motoring into Stubbekøbing. However, the wind was also accompanied by a heavy shower. The posts on the pontoon were rather widely spaced, which meant we had some trouble getting the right angle to get the bow near enough the pontoon for easy access. After spending some time trying to get the boarding ladder to fit, we decided to run a rope directly ahead to the pontoon and pull ourselves in. Payment was by machine again and it also dispensed a pre-paid card for the showers which we put 60 kroner on. However, after only one shower, it claimed not to have enough money on it, although the machine said we still 40 kroner! We walked the 500 m to the town to buy stores from the two supermarkets, and on the way back, I noticed that there was a store selling Camping Gas near to the harbour. We ate on board and went to bed early in anticipation of an early start for the 50 mile run back to Korsør.

Mary the Navigator

Tuesday 12th – Stubbekøbing

Up at 06:30 ready to fuel up in the fishing harbour. We had arranged with the harbourmaster to be there shortly after 07:00. After fuelling, we motored into a light head wind which finally died completely. At least it was warm and sunny. We arrived at Korsør at about 15:30 and motored through a mass of jellyfish just off the harbour entrance. We searched for a box wide enough to take Freyja, finally found one and moored up. After cleaning up and showering, we had another pleasant meal in the restaurant and a feed on the last of the cheese, biscuits and wine on board before retiring.

Pinic at Vejro

Wednesday 13th – Korsør

Awoke to rain and a cold wind. Outside work and taking bags to the car was done between the showers. We obtained a new gas bottle as we had finished the other one, having eaten on board most days, and got a refund on our shower card. This then paid for hot chocolate in the yacht club while we waited for the restaurant to open for lunch. We handed over to the oncoming crew, had a hearty lunch to keep us going for the journey, and then said our goodbyes to Jean, Stephanie and John who were going home by car and ferry. Mary and I took a taxi to the station where we caught a train for Copenhagen airport and flew back to Heathrow.

Freya in Denmark  -  a saga of epic portions.

Nykobing to Korsor via Klintholm & Nyord

The crew assembled, the boat victualled and we set sail from Nykobing for Gedser. A little gilling around before the bridge and we’re away - an island of cattle, some eider duck and we’re beginning to find our sea legs and so are able to turn our attention to more serious matters, not least how Cecil’s steak and kidney pudding is going to be cooked.

Arriving in Gedser we realise that our ability with box moorings is somewhat rusty but we master the manoeuvre with the help of a neighbouring German crew. The next morning sees us more adept as we neatly slip the moorings and face a 20 knot north easterly. Before we know it we are plunging along exhilaratingly at 7 to 8 knots.   

As we make Klintholm we have to carefully manoeuvre around traditional colonies of fishing posts known as “Stellnetz.” There are certain foreign words one never forgets! Arriving in the harbour we realise that some of us are still ‘lasso challenged’.

The next morning finds us bobbing gently looking at the white cliffs of Mon - an almost lunar experience. Our thoughts and conversation in the face of such tranquil beauty turns to Zen and of course the making of the steak and kidney pudding. But again it is not long before we are close hauled in a force 6 gusting 7. Nothing daunted Danny and his lookout doze at the helm-“Come wind come wrack!!!” The skipper smashes a mug. Steak and Kidney pudding seems no closer although Cecil is now dismantling saucepans.

We take a day out at Nyord to enjoy this tranquil untouched island. These Baltic islands barely protruding from the sea begin to weave their magic on us with their tight boulder built cobs, eerie water lands, thatched cottages, stalwart white churches - in the centre of which swings a model galleon, potent symbol of all that these people stand for with their history of pilotage, fishing and reclamation.

Finally, a magnificent suet pudding stuffed with ox meat is served finished off with a cheese cake compliments of Hilary. This with a local apple schnapps soon sees us all heavily asleep.

We wake to sunshine and a glorious view of fishing boats staggered amongst grey scoured posts on which perch ominous gulls, behind them a rising yellow field and a white church. The scene is almost as good as one of Hilary’s sketches.

From Nyord to Femo and the gunwale running under water - a plea from Sue at the helm for us to be more “upright.” Is this a toast or a moral injunction or what?

 

From Femo to Omo and gentler sailing. From Omo to Korsor we goose wing serenely.

 

That final evening we dine ashore, return to the boat, and relax sipping wine. Hillary sketches, Cecil reads poetry. Danny and Sue chat philosophy and Alan ponders the promise of distant horizons. A perfect end to a perfect week, or as we say on our boat-“Not one you’d want to shake a goose at!!!”

Danny Strike

“Freyja”  -  A Baltic Journey

29 June – 6 July 2011.

 

Route travelled:  Nykobing, Falster – Gedser – Klintholm – Nyord – Vordingborg – Femo – Omo – Korsor.  7 nights aboard;  162 NM;  24.5 engine hrs.

The famous five go to the Baltic with Brian

Crew: Brian Barnes, John and Fre Garside Nigel Harrison, Steve McGarry and Rae Garden.

It was on the 22^nd June in Korsor on the west side of Sjaeland that we find the six chums preparing for their adventure on the good ship Freyja.

 

  They had been to the local store to fill their hamper with lashings of ginger beer and sticky buns, and they had discovered on the next evening in that very marina there was to be a giant bonfire and a barbeque to celebrate Sankt Hans Aften – or in English the Birth of John the Baptist and Midsummer evening. They all thought it would be a wizard idea to go along and join in the fun. 

So first thing next morning they all gathered excitedly to sail out for a 30 mile tour of the seas between Sjaeland and Fyn and making sure they got back to Korsor in time for the celebrations. It was very cold and windy but the six were rufty tufty sailors and were able to withstand the elements.

The food at the barbeque was good although Julian was particularly disappointed to have red caviar instead of his usual black. The entertainment was provided by a very good six piece group called FAR OUT BAND.DK and ginger beer was consumed well into the night and Georgie and Dick managed a little dancing.

The aim of the adventure was to get to Aeroskobing and then in the following days to move eastwards. Sailing was through some beautiful scenery, still very cold and windy, but the mooring in Svendborg was very sheltered. Next to the mooring was a most wonderful fresh fish shop with all manner of delicious offerings like local salted herring and smoked eel. Just right for a picnic

On the Saturday they set sail for Aeroskobing and the town turned out to be as charming as the brochures had suggested.  Dinner that night was in a marquee in the town and was massive chunks of beef and chips – of course Georgie had to ask for more chips! While the friends were waiting for their meal they were introduced to Jan Pederson, a local informative and entertaining tour guide who was dressed as a night watchman from the old fairytale-days, like the night watchman who took care of the city. His job is to walk up the streets of Ærøskøbing to ensure all is well in the town. As you can see, dear reader, in the photo he is equipped with a large pole with a ball on the top. Into this ball are a number of spikes with which he can maintain law and order, even pull a man off his horse. He was very knowledgeable about the history of the role, the Island, the architecture and many other things.

Now that the six had reached Aeroskobing they had to plan the next stages of their adventure in order to get to Nykobing F by Tuesday night. So looking through the tour guides they decided Vejro Island looked deserted and would be just right for Monday night and Julian had the ripping wheeze of buying take away barbeques to have a picnic on the beach and of course more ginger pop.

But that was Monday night and so they decided that Largo would be midway between Aero and Vejro. Leaving Aero on a grey morning, but it was certainly warmer and it was a motoring buoy hopping trip through a nature reserve at Marstal.

Freyja was the last but one into the marina at Largo but still managed to fit comfortably into a box mooring

 

Monday morning dawned bright and still and before they left for Vejro. Julian said he was going to take some photographs of the boat and crew. To which Georgie exclaimed “wait until I take my knickers down”!  

Well!!

It transpired that her clean undies were hanging on the rail and needed to be removed to save spoiling the photo.

 

The Skipper of a neighbouring boat in Largo questioned the proposed visit to Vejro as he understood a management company had taken over the island and were charging high rates for their marina charges.

As it turned out he was quite correct for a notice at the entrance to the marina said for a boat of Freyja’s length it would cost 350Kr, and so the chums decided to move on to the neighbouring island of Femo which turned out to be delightful.

This island had purpose built barbeque stations with seats and tables close by and Julian again took on the role of chef creating a feast of sausages, pork and salmon with cooked bananas and yoghurt for pudding while Timmy the rat sorted out the ginger pop. Another good evening.

 

 

The next day was to be the last and Freyja left in a strengthening breeze towards the hand over port of Nykobing F.

With one bridge to encounter the ghost of David Bedborough loomed and as Freyja moved within a short distance of the bridge the lights started flashing – just like on the Dutch canal system. Thank you David.

 

The week finished with another barbeque in the marina – the only disappointment being the lack of the advertised diesel pump.

 

by Brian Barnes & others.